As with their previous pilgrimage, the Redeemer Pilgrims will be sending updates to us to share with all of you. We’ll add them here with the newest message at the top, with the pictures they send.
Update 9 – May 16
The Pilgrims have arrived on Holy Island! Lee brings us along for the final part of the pilgrimage.
We have arrived in Lindisfarne on the Holy Island!
We awoke this morning to beautiful, sunny skies, with a temperature of 7C – perfect weather for the 17 of us (and Dani) to set off on the last leg of our journey along St. Cuthbert’s Way. The weather this week has been a gift from God. There can be no doubt that the pilgrimage from Melrose to the Holy Island would have been far more difficult to complete if it had been cold and rainy.
After a hearty breakfast, we heard reflections from Deb and John Deacon. Amongst other things, they focused on how their journey to Lindisfarne was much different than what they had imagined it would be, but that God has been with them throughout their journey.
We then set off as a group to the Holy Island. Crossing the North Sea from the mainland to the island by foot takes anywhere from 90 minutes to two hours. Timing is critical, because the causeway (which accommodates both cars and walkers) and the seabed crossing (for walkers only) is underwater for a good part of the day.
Today, the path to the Holy Island was available from about 8:35 am to approximately 4:10 pm. On its face, that appears to be a large window of time. However, the window is actually somewhat narrower, because the tide comes in, and sea water begins to very rapidly fill the channel, as the upper end of that time frame comes near. Many people have been rescued because they didn’t properly time the crossing.
Last night, there were many discussions at dinner focusing upon when we should start our way across to the Holy Island. We carefully considered all of the information available to us, spoke to a number of locals, and determined that we should all be down to the causeway and ready to cross over to the island by about 9:45 am today.
Which we were. We walked as a group to the beginning of the causeway, and each pilgrim decided how he or she would make the walk to Lindisfarne. One of us opted to take the bus over, four (along with Dani) walked over on the causeway, and 12 of us (including John, who is feeling much better) walked to the Holy Island by way of the seabed. Of the latter 12, some walked barefoot, the most traditional way of making the crossing. Pilgrims making the seabed crossing follow tall guideposts that have been inserted into the sand. We all made it to the Holy Island safe and sound, though the 12 who walked over by way of the seabed were definitely far wetter and muddier at the completion of the walk than they had thought they would be.
Late this afternoon we celebrated a Eucharist at the Anglican Church of St. Mary the Virgin. The church is over 800 years old, and is built over an earlier Saxon church, which is likely the site of the first church built by St. Aidan in 635. Andrew presided and gave the homily. His sermon focused, in part, on how we had spent time together looking out for each other, ensuring that no one was left behind, and had developed a special bond of friendship that will endure forever.
Tonight, after dinner, we were the guests of the Rev. Sarah Hills, the Vicar of St. Mary the Virgin, at her Vicarage in Lindisfarne. A number of local clergy were invited to meet with us over a glass of wine. A wonderful time was held by all. Many friendly dogs were also in attendance, which made the evening that much more enjoyable!
Finally, on a lighter note, we have discovered that a purveyor of fine liquor on the Holy Island sells a product called “The Redeemer”, a “Tipsy Coffee”, which is composed of coffee, rum, and condensed milk. It’s been suggested that the drink be made available at coffee hour after the service each Sunday!
Update 8 – May 15
They are almost there! Come along with Susan as she tells us about today’s journey.
Good morning Wooler. Again, we gather for a reflection by Heather Bennett, which placed this experience with other times when we are getting close to an end of a goal, objective, project. How we need to focus and not lose sight of that goal, objective, project. And that is where we are. Almost at the end.
Today, we split into two groups based on who wanted to take on the full distance – 20 km – to our penultimate destination and who would undertake the last 10 of those kilometers. After several days of challenging hiking (steep climbs and narrow paths dropping off precipitously) some of us weren’t sure we had the stamina for the full 20km. The two groups would both experience several high points.
The first, St Cuthbert’s Cave, was a striking location for its uniqueness. Nowhere else have we seen such a rock formation. It is also one of the few places with a connection with Cuddy, as he was known then.
The cave is said to be one of the resting places for the followers of Cuthbert carrying his large coffin and in search for a permanent resting place. (Durham is where his shrine was eventually built, the magnificent Durham Cathedral more than 120 km south of where we are walking. A long trip with a very heavy load.)
We then continued on until we were awestruck again. Coming up through a pasture to the brow of a hill, we could see for miles and saw the misty North Sea and a glimpse of our goal – the Holy Island of Lindisfarne!
At the end of the day, both groups met within minutes of one another at the crossroad village of Fenwick. (“Fenick” is the local pronunciation.) You can tell that each group kept a quite different pace!
We hope the pictures tell it well as we head for the rest required to make the final 10km push down toward our goal tomorrow morning.
Update 7 – May 14
We have two updates from the Pilgrims today. In the first, Carol and Heather bring us along with them. In the second update, John sends us an update on how he is doing and the different pilgrimage he has ended up on.
Another beautiful walking day! A little cooler than before, but no rain in sight. The locals tell us we are fortunate, as this weather is rare. Today we walked over the border between Scotland and England, so we are now officially in Northumbria.
Today the walk was over 20 kms, which, given the hilly terrain, was a stretch. We decided to break into three groups. The first group walked the first 9 kms, the second group did a more challenging 13 km walk, and the third group took a rest day. Something for everyone!
A highlight for all of us is that Deb and John Deacon are back with us. We were happy to see them! John had a health challenge, which he will write about separately.
We are in the Cheviot Hills, and the terrain today was hilly but beautiful. The path in places is nothing more than a sheep track. And there were many, many sheep, and very few people. Not only sheep but cattle too. The group that set off from the Borders Hotel encountered a group of cows and calves early in our day’s walk. From a distance, they looked placid enough.
As we got closer, we realized they were not behind a fence. Further, they were all staring at us and clearly (intentionally?) blocking our path! A spotted cow looked particularly menacing and remained firmly standing next to the bridge we were meant to use to stay on St Cuthbert’s Way.
Wisely, we carefully crossed a little stream requiring concentration to prevent a soaker. We continued walking uphill having to later walk down into a gully and back up to pick up the proper path.
Where are we staying?
Mostly in small inns that are operated by locals. Our accommodations vary, but generally all have been charming and comfortable. The staff have been kind and warm-hearted.
All have pubs attached, which is a nice place to have a cold one after a long walk. Each morning we have a substantial breakfast, and we leave with a packed lunch to eat on the trail.
This evening we had our second Eucharist at our hotel. The Rev. Paul Walker presided, and encouraged us to keep looking upward towards our goal. John Deacon was back with his guitar to provide the musical accompaniment. The last hymn was “This is my Fathers World“, which was so meaningful given our amazing experiences in God’s creation.
Tomorrow is our last walking day before we get to the Holy Island. We are almost there!
Update from John
As the doctor told me after learning this was my first overnight day as a patient in a hospital since 1955 – “Yours is a charmed existence”. I couldn’t argue with him, given that my 40-hour stay at the Borders General Hospital in Scotland to deal with a bout of pneumonia was an extension of that charm we call ‘grace’. The nursing care was amazing. I am convinced that one-half of the nurses could be stand-up comedians, which could be true of the other half – if only I could understand what they’re saying!
It is unlikely I will be able to join the other pilgrims in walking, which has me thinking that illness is its own Camino. One has to trust in the care of others who without exception are strangers to you – plus begin a journey where you don’t know where it will take you, has its own terrain of ups and downs, and gives no itinerary as to where it might take you, or how it might end.
In my case, thankfully, it meant my being discharged late Monday afternoon.
It has also meant that Deb, as of this morning, has begun her walk with the others, which includes the hilliest of terrains. Since she has hardly had a restful stay to this juncture, strength for her journey alongside the others is a matter for prayer.
The support we have received from our fellow pilgrims reaches deep into my soul, with one vision in particular that I am unlikely to forget.
It was of Paul Walker climbing out of the bus some 50 yards from where I stood, throwing his arms wide open, like the father in the story of the prodigal, welcoming me home with open arms.
Now that I am outdoors again the scenery is amazing. A near match to the nurses and my fellow patients in unit six: Matthew, Ian, William, James and George. Given the severity of their symptoms, their illness pilgrimages aren’t likely to end anytime soon. I have two forms of antibiotics to see me through for the next week, and then I have to book a follow-up chest X-ray six weeks from now, to ensure no lingering symptoms. Our family is aware of what’s transpired and have been very supportive. Our two granddaughters have sent Deb and I get-well videos which persuade us they might be comedians in training!
For your expressions of care and prayers of support, Deb and I are most grateful!
Update 6 – May 13
Cattle and sheep and horses…oh my. Views that were breathtaking…OH MY! Lee brings us along for today’s walk along St Cuthbert’s Way.
Today was supposed to be the longest walking day of the pilgrimage – a 23.5 km walk from Jedburgh to Kirk Yetholm, with an additional initial two kilometres of walking needed to simply get us back to St. Cuthbert’s Way from the hotels at which we spent the night.
But it didn’t work out that way. Our tour company estimated that yesterday’s walk was supposed to be about 13.5 kms long. That estimate was a bit off – those of us who were tracking distance and steps estimate that we walked closer to 19 kms. It took a lot longer than anticipated for us to get to Jedburgh, and was that much more difficult because much of the walking was done during the warmer afternoon.
After some discussion this morning, the pilgrims made the decision to walk in two groups. One group (eight of us) would walk from Jedburgh to Morebattle, approximately 14 kms away, and then be bused to Kirk Yetholm. That walk was hilly, but has fewer hills than the other walk, and would be much friendlier to those of us who are suffering from various aches and pains.
The eight who walked in this group enjoyed wonderful vistas, but found, as all of us have, that the up and down terrain, and the narrow footpaths, were a real challenge.
There were other challenges too. When we move from one farmer’s field to another, we often do so by climbing up and down a set of steps referred to as a “style”. One of the styles today – three stone steps without a railing or backing – was a potential obstacle. In particular, Dani was hesitant to go up all of the steps. Ultimately, Andrew lifted Dani up and over the style. Joan mentioned that her successful conquering of the style was proof that her pilates classes had definitely paid off.
The second group (six of us) was driven by bus to Morebattle, where we would pick up St. Cuthbert’s Way and walk the 11 km trek into Kirk Yetholm, in lieu of the longer scheduled distance. But this truncated walk was itself a major challenge – the Official Guide of St. Cuthbert’s Way describes these 11 kms as “the most strenuous of the whole route” because it includes a “sustained climb to nearly 1300 feet, with a number of steep sections”. The payoff for enduring the massive climb was said to be the fabulous views from the top.
Those views were as fabulous as advertised. On the way up to the peak (known as “Wideopen Hill” – both the highest elevation and the midpoint of St. Cuthbert’s Way), we encountered spectacular vistas of the Scottish countryside. We also encountered a hare, a pheasant, innumerable sheep, and a number of horses grazing in a meadow. We also met up and walked our way into Kirk Yetholm with the same couple who helped some of us shepherd an escaped sheep back into its field a few days ago. The walk, though exhausting both on the way up and the way down, was well worth the effort.
As many of you know, we are carrying prayers from parishioners of Redeemer to Lindisfarne, the Holy Island. One pilgrim has offered to carry the prayers each day. Yesterday it was Peter, and today it was Carol. One of us will continue to do so each day until we reach Lindisfarne.
Tomorrow, we are off to Wooler. Because of the overall distance from Kirk Yetholm (21kms), and a large number of significant vertical climbs, it has been suggested that pilgrims once again be given an opportunity to choose one of two shorter routes. However, this will not be decided until tomorrow morning when we meet up to start walking.
The weather here has been spectacular (almost every local we meet tells us that this warm and sunny weather is far from normal), and it appears that it will continue this way tomorrow. It will be sunny and a bit cooler. A beautiful day for a wee stroll!
Update 5 – May 12
The day when the route was longer than expected. As you can tell in this update from Audrey, that may have been unexpected but the beauty of what the Redeemer Pilgrims experienced along the way made up for the extra distance.
Our second day of walking began with the fog lifting and cooler weather, but eventually this gave way to sunshine. After a delicious breakfast we started out walking along the River Tweed, a major river that flows across the Borders region of Scotland and northern England. This route took us up and down paths and through some forested areas until we arrived at the village of Maxton. The local church was closed but we were able to peek in the windows and see this lovely church.
We then made our way to a walkway called the Roman road. It was a long one!
It is difficult to adequately capture the verdant landscape that surrounded us on our walk.
We never tired of the patchwork of green fields and golden canola we passed through, only to be surprised by a lush forest with an endless variety of trees and vegetation. It was almost enchanted!
It was a splendid day but also a very long one, and we gratefully arrived at our hotel eager for a hot shower and a meal.
As a final note, we want to let the Redeemer community know that John Deacon became ill and has not been able to join us on our walk. We look forward to John and Deb rejoining us for dinner tomorrow evening. Please keep him in your prayers.
Update 4 – May 11
And they are on their way! The Redeemer Pilgrims have begun to walk St Cuthbert’s Way and (delightfully), on this Good Shepherd Sunday, have tales of Good Shepherds and sheep to tell. Thanks to Susan and Mary for sharing their experiences today.
Good Shepherd Sunday
And we are off! Following a lovely dinner on Saturday evening (thank you, Jenny Kerber, for the fine restaurant recommendation), we gathered for breakfast and in our gear on this Good Shepherd Sunday. Susan Haig began what will be our daily routine: a short reflection from a pilgrim, being put into three walking groups for the day so we look after one another, giving the bag of your prayers to be carried (Joan and Dani today) and picking a name of another pilgrim to hold in prayer for the day. The requisite photo of the group was taken and we set off agreeing that we will be silent for at least the first hour of our journey each day.
In that hour today, we had a challenging climb up to the saddle of the Eildon Hills and then down the other side through woods, by open fields of brilliant yellow canola and then along the winding Tweed River to St Boswell’s.
I am part of the group with Lee Shouldice and Carol Ritter and Marlene and Eric Hartley. Our adventure today included an unintentional detour that added maybe a kilometer to the trek and meant that we, the first group out, were the third group home.
However, we encountered a Good Shepherd along the way. Nearing the village of Bowden a car stopped and asked if we were pilgrims. This resulted in an invitation to enjoy the hospitality of the Bowden Kirk. We were given a box of shortbread and some milk along with directions for the Kirk, where we would find a kitchen to make tea and eat lunch as well as access to a washroom! Our Good Shepherd, Colin, arrived a while later to greet us along with his dog, Teaga.
And another group had a Good Shepherd experience of a different sort. We were joined by a group from England and suggested they pass us, having age and agility on their side. They opened one of the wooden gates leading further along the path and a black sheep took the opportunity to pass through. It ran down the embankment, thoroughly enjoying an escape and the greenery on the trees above. We could hear the bleating of a young lamb on the other side of the fence. We joined forces with the other pilgrims to try and corral the sheep back to the fence. With fake bleats, walking sticks as guides and group effort, we eventually shepherded the sheep back through the gate to join its now happier newborn.
You never know what to expect on the Way of the Pilgrim. It seemed providential on this our first day, on Good Shepherd Sunday and Mother’s Day.
Tomorrow we head to Jedburgh. Keep us in your prayers as we remember you.
Update 3 – May 10
The Redeemer Pilgrims are on the move! Carol tells us about their day preparing to begin walking St Cuthbert’s Way.
The sun continues to shine on the Redeemer pilgrims! We left Edinburgh early this morning on a bus driven by our capable and affable driver Billy. The drive to the Borders country was stunning. Rolling emerald fields dotted with sheep and wee adorable lambs. The hills were bright with golden gorse bushes.
We arrived at Dryburgh Abbey in mid-morning. After a short briefing on the history of the Abbey (built in 1150 ), we had an hour to wonder through the ruins and learn about monastery life. 
Two historic celebrities are buried in the Abbey ruins: Sir Walter Scott, the famous historical novelist, and Earl Douglas Haig, commander of the British Expeditionary Force in WW1 (and most importantly, a relative of Susan Haig).
We then stopped at the location of the original Melrose Abbey (where St Cuthbert served) and then proceeded to the town of Melrose where we had a substantial lunch at a local restaurant.
After lunch, we visited the famous Melrose Abbey. Although we couldn’t go inside the ruins because of restoration work, we were able to wander around the outside and the beautiful grounds.
The highlight of the day was the Eucharist that we held in a corner of the Abbey grounds, using a picnic table as an altar. Susan Haig had prepared a beautiful nature-focused liturgy and in her homily encouraged us to put our trust in God who holds and protects us as we venture into the unknown. John Deacon brought his travelling guitar and provided the musical accompaniment. Thank you Susan and John (and the others who helped) for such a meaningful service.
We then checked into our hotel and finished the evening with dinner at one of the many local restaurants in Melrose. Tomorrow we start walking!
Update 2 – May 9
Audrey shares details of their second day (and there is the requisite picture of Pilgrimage Dog – Dani – as she enjoyed a wee nap during lunch.)
It was another bright sunny day in Edinburgh. We gathered at 9 AM at our hotel and met with Adriana, who took us on a walking tour of the city beginning in the Grassmarket area. Located below Edinburgh Castle just off the Royal Mile, the Grassmarket includes a large public square with many restaurants. We then headed up Victoria Street, with its lovely shops and the inspiration for Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter series.
Our walk took us through the cobbled streets of both the Old Town and New Town of Edinburgh. One highlight was walking along the Royal Mile with Edinburgh Castle at one end and Holyrood Palace at the other. The architecture in this city reflects the different time periods and styles of well-known architects, but Adriana also pointed out that cities can be distinguished by the colour of sandstone, which in Edinburgh is creamy in colour.
Edinburgh is a city of world-renowned writers. The monument and statue of Sir Walter Scott was huge – a grand example of how the city honours its writers. Along our walk, we passed a number of churches, including St Giles’ Cathedral – stunning in its majesty and definitely worth a visit. It is home to the Order of the Thistle, and is where the private funeral service for Queen Elizabeth was held.
There were a number of delightful surprises on our walking tour. One was exploring the quiet spaces that could be accessed through a close or alley – for example, the Greyfriars cemetery, St James Court where many students live, and the Writers’ Museum. Adriana also entertained us with many stories of haunted buildings, colourful characters from days past, and anecdotes about JK Rowling and her characters in Harry Potter. There is so much to see in this splendid city. We ended our tour wanting to explore more.
We enjoyed an afternoon to ourselves and then had a fabulous dinner together at the Grand Cafe. A few headed out to local pub to enjoy Scottish music.
Tomorrow we head to Dryburgh Abbey in St Boswell, and then to Melrose. We hope the sunshine continues!
Update 1: May 8
The first update comes from Lee.
Our pilgrimage to the Holy Island is now underway. All but two of us (who had departed for the UK separately, a day earlier) gathered at Pearson Airport in the afternoon on Wednesday, May 7 to travel to Edinburgh, Scotland. We were in good spirits, and are all looking forward to our pilgrimage from Melrose to Lindisfarne, tracing the footsteps of so many other pilgrims before us, learning about the life and times of St. Cuthbert, and perhaps learning something about ourselves too.
The flight to Edinburgh was uneventful. Perhaps as a positive sign, the plane pushed back from the gate five minutes early, arrived here in the UK 30 minutes to the good, and no luggage was lost or destroyed. The weather in Edinburgh was superb – sunny and bright, and not too warm. We really couldn’t have asked for a better start.
We met our guide, Adriana, at the airport and made it to our hotel by bus, but were very early and could not check in. Most of us left our luggage at the hotel and took in the sights – some of which include Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile, the Scottish Parliament, and Holyrood Palace.
Some of us visited the Parish Church of St. Cuthbert, a Presbyterian church in Edinburgh’s Old Town, where it is said that Cuthbert preached in the 7th century. On a more touristy level, there are a lot of clan-based shopping opportunities. If anyone is looking to purchase a scarf with a family tartan, this is the place to find it! Once we secured key cards to our rooms, most of us rested up before dinner.
Tonight we enjoyed a catered meal at St. John’s Scottish Episcopal Church, which was organized by Peter Bennett. Peter had arranged for us a surprise guest – we were piped into the dinner by Peter and Heather’s nephew, Matthew. Before dinner, Matthew explained to us the art of playing the bagpipes and answered all of our questions about piping. He ended the evening with a soulful rendition of Amazing Grace. Thank you Peter!
Tomorrow we will try our best to acclimatize ourselves to our new time zone, which is five hours earlier than that experienced in the GTA. We will enjoy a walking tour of downtown with Adriana , where expect to learn more about the City of Edinburgh.
Blessing the Pilgrims: May 4
The Redeemer Pilgrims will soon be setting out to walk St Cuthbert’s Way. On Sunday, May 4, the community gathered to bless them on their way. As part of that blessing, the children made and presented crosses for them to carry on their backpacks or in their pockets.
